There may be no better river for paddling anywhere in Central Florida—or at least no better dark-water, non-spring river—than the Hillsborough River. It lies less than an hour from Tampa, yet offers a remarkable series of paddle sections, each with its own character. From the headwaters and wilderness reaches to broad floodplains, suburban shorelines and downtown Tampa, none of these sections is bad.
The upper river is especially natural and undisturbed. It is possible to spend hours paddling without seeing another person or hearing traffic. Wildlife is abundant throughout the river, and the changing width, banks, vegetation and degree of development make every stretch feel different.
Upper watershed
Crystal Springs Preserve
Crystal Springs Preserve lies above Hillsborough River State Park and contributes clear spring water to the upper Hillsborough River. I was once able to access this area regularly through my work, and it is an incredibly beautiful and wild place.
The property is now managed as a private nature preserve centered on conservation and environmental education. It is not a normal public paddling access, but it is exactly the kind of place where I should investigate volunteering, teaching or helping with youth programs.
Primary upper launch
Hillsborough River State Park
Hillsborough River State Park is one of the best upper-river launch areas. It has established canoe and kayak access, and it begins a beautiful stretch of deep, dark tannic water bordered by high banks, limestone, sand and dense forest.
The river is generally broad enough for easy navigation in this upper section, though limestone shoals and shallow rocky areas add variety. The surrounding forest feels old, wild and largely untouched.
Midpoint access
Dead River Park
Dead River Park lies between Hillsborough River State Park and John B. Sargeant Park. Access has been limited for years, and it has often functioned more as a walk-in stop than a dependable vehicle access.
For paddlers traveling the full upper run, the bridge area can offer a convenient place for a short break or a chance to cool off. Any swimming is entirely at the paddler’s own risk because alligators are present throughout the river.
The legendary wilderness section
Seventeen Runs
Between Dead River Park and John B. Sargeant Park is the infamous Seventeen Runs. Historically, it was not maintained. Hundreds of fallen trees, high-gradient side channels and a maze of diverging routes made it one of the most difficult paddles in the region.
During higher water, the river spreads into the floodplain and many apparent channels taper into nothing. Taking the wrong turn can leave paddlers trapped behind blowdowns or wandering in swamp forest with little hope of an easy rescue. Warning signs at the entrances have included messages such as “treacherous area ahead” and “experienced paddlers only.”
After recent hurricane cleanup, contractors cleared major blowdowns from the river, and the work continued into portions of Seventeen Runs. Whether every part of that clearing was intentional or not, the result temporarily transformed the section into an extraordinary paddle route.
The scenery is remarkable, but the river is extremely narrow and lined with large alligators. At times, a gator may appear almost as wide as the channel. The run may be navigable by paddlers with a wide range of skill when recently cleared, but this is not a place where anyone should become pinned sideways, capsize or lose control.
Some shallow sandy and gravelly stretches have clear, fast-moving water only about a foot deep. They can look almost like spring runs and may provide attractive places to pause, but current, footing and wildlife still require caution.
Major access and shuttle point
John B. Sargeant Sr. Conservation Park
Sargeant Park is an excellent takeout for the upper river and an equally useful launch for trips downstream. The shuttle from Sargeant Park to Hillsborough River State Park is relatively simple because much of it follows U.S. 301, although the state park launch is several miles inside the park’s loop road.
A side channel near the park leads toward Flint Creek and beneath U.S. 301. This area can hold extraordinary numbers of alligators, turtles and birds. It is fascinating to explore, but it demands respect.
Fishing docks and habituated alligators
Alligators near fishing docks, bridges and urban access points may be more dangerous than animals in remote wilderness. Discarded bait and unwanted fish can teach them to associate people with food. Once an animal loses its fear and begins approaching people for food, its behavior changes.
The same principle applies to bears and other wildlife: animals that are never fed usually avoid people, while animals rewarded with food may begin seeking people out.
My favorite middle section
Sargeant Park to Morris Bridge
In my opinion, the stretch from Sargeant Park to Morris Bridge may be the most beautiful section of the entire river. I have paddled it many times, beginning soon after I moved to Florida in 2014.
The river spreads into a broad floodplain, especially during the rainy season. In summer there may be fewer birds, while winter can bring thousands of seasonal birds into the flooded forest. Different species appear in fall, winter and spring, and the wildlife changes constantly.
Alligators rest along the banks, turtles crowd logs and branches, and birds fill the trees and shallows. The forest canopy and broad floodplain create a sense of deep wilderness.
I once paddled this section in a canoe with dogs, but I would not do that now. There are too many alligators, and dogs and alligator habitat are a dangerous combination if a boat flips.
Old logging remains
Near Morris Bridge, old wooden pilings remain from historic logging and tram operations. Rail carts once hauled valuable timber, particularly cypress, out of the floodplain. Although the area was heavily cut more than a century ago, it has recovered so beautifully that much of it now appears untouched.
Shuttle
The shuttle between Sargeant Park and Morris Bridge is longer and less direct than the state-park shuttle. It generally requires returning toward U.S. 301 and using the interstate or connecting roads to reach Morris Bridge Road, but it remains manageable.
Lower wilderness section
Morris Bridge to Trout Creek
Below Morris Bridge, the river becomes wider and the banks become lower. Aquatic plants spread along the margins, including invasive vegetation such as water lettuce. Even with these changes, the river remains beautiful and rich in wildlife.
Wading birds hunt in the shallows, and alligators often rest partly submerged among the weeds because the banks offer fewer high, dry basking areas.
Trout Creek Conservation Park is a good destination with hiking, boardwalks and other recreation. The launch can be a considerable distance from some parking areas, so paddlers should plan for a potentially long boat carry.
Morris Bridge and Trout Creek are also excellent destinations for hiking. A non-paddling companion could easily spend hours on the trails and boardwalks, and paddlers with energy left after a trip can extend their day on land.
Suburban river
Rotary Park
South of Trout Creek, the Hillsborough River broadens and begins passing through the suburbs of Tampa. Houses become more common, but much of the river remains heavily tree-lined and attractive.
Rotary Park provides another useful launch and takeout. I have paddled this section only once or twice with groups, so it is a part of the river that deserves more future exploration.
Dam and flood-control reach
River Hills Park
River Hills Park is another lower-river access point. We have launched there and paddled upstream toward the dam and water-control structures.
The Hillsborough River is tied to Tampa’s flood-control system. During extreme flows, water can be routed through the Tampa Bypass Canal to reduce flooding risk in the city. This lower section offers a completely different perspective from the wilderness river upstream.
Urban paddling
Downtown Tampa and the Riverwalk
One of the most unusual Hillsborough River paddles runs directly through downtown Tampa. The Riverwalk follows much of the river, and paddlers pass high-rise buildings, bridges, large vessels and working waterfront areas.
I paddled this section once on a trip led by Robbie. It is a great urban outing, especially for photographs. Tiny kayaks and paddleboards look almost impossibly small beside the massive ships, buildings and industrial structures.
Future trip-report index
Hillsborough River Paddle Trips
This section will eventually link to individual trip reports, photographs, dates, water levels and group details. For now, these are the major routes described on this page.
- Hillsborough River State Park to Sargeant Park: approximately eight miles through the upper river, Dead River and Seventeen Runs.
- Sargeant Park to Morris Bridge: broad floodplain forest, abundant wildlife and one of my favorite sections.
- Morris Bridge to Trout Creek: wider water, lower banks, aquatic vegetation and extensive park trails.
- State Park to Trout Creek: a long full-day trip passing Dead River, Sargeant Park and Morris Bridge before finishing at Trout Creek.
- Downtown Tampa: an urban paddle beside the Riverwalk, bridges, high-rises and large ships.