Kym and I spent a few days in Montezuma during our Costa Rica trip, and it turned out to be exactly the kind of place we enjoy: tropical, colorful, informal and just rough enough around the edges to still feel real. Montezuma is a little beach town backed by jungle on the southern Nicoya Peninsula, with small hotels, open-air restaurants, art, trails and beaches all packed into a place that is easy to explore on foot.
Our days were a mixture of doing almost nothing and walking for hours. We relaxed around our open-air hillside lodging, watched Pacific sunsets from hammocks, wandered through town, followed coastal trails toward quieter beaches, explored the rocky shoreline and then came back for dinner and the easygoing nightlife. There was no need for much of an itinerary. Montezuma itself was the experience.
One of the things that immediately made Montezuma feel special was the setting. Kym and I had come over to spend a few days here, and almost as soon as we settled in the Pacific began putting on the kind of sunset that makes you stop whatever you are doing and just watch. From the hillside above town, the ocean seemed to fill the entire horizon.
The sunsets were not just something we went somewhere to see—they were part of where we were staying. Trees and palms framed the ocean, and the light filtered through the branches as the sun dropped lower. Montezuma has a way of making ordinary moments feel like part of the landscape.
As the sky turned orange, the whole hillside changed with it. The light bounced off the water and silhouettes of palms and branches stood out against the horizon. It was a great introduction to the slow, relaxed pace we were hoping to find for these few days.
Our lodging fit Montezuma perfectly: simple, open-air and surrounded by tropical vegetation. A hammock hung where we could sit back and look toward the ocean. There was nothing fancy about the experience, and that was exactly why it worked so well.
This was the kind of place where a hammock could easily become the best piece of furniture in the room. With the Pacific glowing beyond the trees, there was no particular reason to rush anywhere. We could sit, listen to the sounds outside and watch the light change.
Kym settled right into the Montezuma routine. The town attracts people who are comfortable slowing down for a while, and our little hillside retreat made that easy. Between walks, meals and trips down to the beach, this was a good place to simply do nothing.
Even the details around the lodging seemed to catch the evening light. Montezuma felt colorful without trying to be polished—wood, plants, handmade decorations and open spaces all blending together with the jungle around them.
From higher on the hillside we could look down through the vegetation toward the coast. The view was a reminder that Montezuma is squeezed between jungle-covered hills and the Pacific, which is a big part of why the town feels so different from a conventional beach resort.
Palm trees, warm air and the sound of the ocean made it very clear that we were far from home. Costa Rica had already given us plenty to explore, but Montezuma had its own personality—smaller, funkier and more informal than many of the better-known destinations.
One of my favorite views was simply looking out through an open window. It framed the ocean almost like a picture hanging on the wall. Places like this are a good reminder that great travel accommodations do not always need luxury; sometimes location, fresh air and a view are more than enough.
Around town and at our lodging there were little pieces of art and messages everywhere. They matched the creative, free-form feeling of Montezuma, where murals, painted signs and handmade decorations seem more natural than polished storefronts.
Some of the art was whimsical, some psychedelic and some simply strange. That was part of the fun. Montezuma has long had a mix of locals, surfers, backpackers, artists and travelers, and the visual character of the town reflects that mixture.
The common areas were mostly open to the outside, with wood decks, hammocks, plants and places to sit. Instead of being sealed away behind air conditioning and glass, we were connected to the weather and the surroundings almost all the time.
Dense tropical growth surrounded everything. Even when we were only a short walk from town, the hillside could feel almost like jungle. It made walking anywhere interesting because the vegetation, birds and changing views were always part of the trip.
There were plenty of spots designed for lingering, including this huge net hammock. We were not in Montezuma to race through a checklist of attractions. A big part of being there was having time to sit around, wander, eat when we felt like it and decide what to do next.
The bright artwork continued the theme. Nothing seemed overly coordinated, but somehow it all fit. Montezuma is the sort of place where a hand-painted wall, a hammock and a jungle view can feel more appropriate than matching furniture and a hotel lobby.
Walking around town was an attraction in itself. Small shops, cafés and open-air places appeared along the road, often decorated with whatever colors and materials happened to be available. There was very little of the sameness that comes with chain stores and large resorts.
This sign pretty much summed up the mood. Montezuma can be busy, dusty and a little rough around the edges, but that is part of the appeal. It feels lived-in and spontaneous rather than manufactured for tourists.
Meals were another chance to enjoy the open-air lifestyle. We ate in small restaurants where tables were open to the street and tropical air. There was no need to dress up or make much of a plan—just find a place that looked good, sit down and enjoy the evening.
One of our favorite parts of Montezuma was getting out of town and following the coast. Trails and rough paths lead past beaches, rocks and jungle, and before long the little town disappears behind you. Kym and I could just keep walking and see what was around the next bend.
The shoreline was not a manicured resort beach. Storms and surf had piled driftwood along parts of the coast, and trees leaned toward the water. That wildness made it much more interesting to explore.
In places the forest seemed to run almost directly into the ocean. Palms leaned over the beach, roots twisted through the sand and waves broke just beyond the trees. It was exactly the kind of coastline we had hoped to find in Costa Rica.
The route alternated between sand, rock and shaded stretches beneath the trees. The changing shoreline kept the walk interesting, and it was easy to stop whenever we found a particularly good view or a quiet place by the water.
At other points the path climbed into the trees. Roots, uneven ground and steep little sections made it feel more like a hike than a beach stroll. Montezuma rewards wandering because the jungle and coastline are so tightly connected.
Wildlife appeared in unexpected places, including this spectacular red land crab. Small encounters like this were part of why we enjoyed exploring on foot. There was always something moving in the leaves, crossing the path or hiding among the rocks.
We stopped along the rocky shoreline for a photo together. Trips like this are often remembered through the big destinations, but for me the best parts are usually simple stretches like this—walking together, no schedule, ocean beside us and nowhere in particular we had to be.
Looking down was almost as interesting as looking out to sea. The beaches contained an incredible mix of shells, coral fragments, stones and pieces worn smooth by the Pacific. Every section of shoreline had a slightly different texture.
The path continued through open woods and higher ground above the coast. From these spots we could catch glimpses of the Pacific between the trees and then drop back down toward the next stretch of beach.
Along the rocky shore we came across stacks of balanced stones. Whether they had been built by travelers earlier that day or had survived longer, they added another touch of Montezuma creativity to the landscape.
Some of the rock stacks looked almost impossible, with large stones balanced on surprisingly small contact points. They turned an ordinary patch of shoreline into a little outdoor sculpture garden.
With the ocean behind them, the cairns seemed perfectly suited to the place—temporary, handmade and a little unconventional. That same combination described much of Montezuma itself.
As evening approached, people drifted back toward the beach. The temperature softened, the light faded and the shoreline became a comfortable place for one more walk before dinner.
The Pacific was never really background scenery. You could hear it from the beach trails, see it from the hillside and watch the waves breaking against dark rocks along the shore. The ocean tied the whole Montezuma experience together.
After a day outside, dinner in town was easy and casual. We could settle into an open-air restaurant, order something good and watch Montezuma shift from beach-town afternoon into evening.
At night the little town stayed lively with restaurants, music, bars and travelers coming and going. Kym and I enjoyed the evenings as much as the daytime exploring. Montezuma was not one spectacular single attraction—it was the combination of jungle, beaches, funky places, good food, sunsets, hiking and a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere that made our few days there memorable.
