Shell Key Preserve is one of the great paddling destinations in Pinellas County. Located just south of Pass-a-Grille and north of Fort De Soto, off the Tierra Verde peninsula, it is a broad sweep of islands, sandbars, quiet coves, open water and long stretches of wild beach. For anyone who enjoys birds, fish, crabs, marine life and undeveloped shoreline, it can feel like nearly 1,800 acres of bliss.
A Wild Coastal Preserve
The main attraction of Shell Key is simply the amount of undeveloped coastal habitat. There are broad sandy beaches, protected inside waters, shallow flats, small coves and countless places where birds and marine life gather. On quiet days, especially during the week, it can feel surprisingly remote despite being so close to the busiest parts of southern Pinellas County.
Camping is allowed in designated areas with a permit, but for me the real appeal has always been paddling through the preserve, walking the beaches and watching wildlife. There are fish everywhere, birds along nearly every stretch of shoreline, crabs in the shallows and an ever-changing landscape of sandbars and tidal water.
Where I Usually Launch
One commonly used launch is a muddy shoreline spot many paddlers call Butler Hole. Some people use a less flattering nickname because the bottom can be deep muck. It is largely decaying vegetation and storm debris that has accumulated along the shoreline, and it is easy to sink knee-deep or lose a shoe. There is usually plenty of parking, but anyone launching there should be prepared for mud.
My preferred launch is farther down the road, just beyond Tampa Bay Watch and near the toll booth before the bridge. There is a sandy parking area traditionally used by fishermen, with room for a number of vehicles and easy access to the water. From there, a paddler can head west toward the southern end of Shell Key or north toward the inside waters and Irma Pass.
Another launch option is the Arrowhead Picnic Area inside Fort De Soto. I especially like this route during calm winter weather. It gives access to quiet coves and lagoons where nesting birds are common, and it can be one of the most beautiful parts of the entire area.
Fort De Soto, Boat Traffic and Bunces Pass
Fort De Soto lies immediately south of Shell Key, separated from it by Bunces Pass. The park has a large and very busy boat-ramp complex, and on weekends, spring-break weeks, holidays and good-weather boating days, the surrounding water can be crowded and chaotic.
Bunces Pass is not a slow-speed paddling corridor. Powerboats often travel through it at speed, and the combination of wakes and tidal flow can make conditions rough very quickly. Law-enforcement boats may be nearby, but paddlers should never assume that other boaters will slow down or give them much room.
Many experienced paddlers do cross the pass, especially in sea kayaks, but it is not a casual crossing. Timing, tide, wind, visibility and boat traffic all matter.
Irma Pass and the Church of the Bended Branch
When I was active with Pinellas Paddlers and other local groups, Shell Key often became the Sunday gathering place. A popular social spot near Irma Pass was known as the Church of the Bended Branch, named for old mangrove trunks and skeletal branches stuck in the sandbars.
Groups of 50, 80 or more people might gather there in shallow water, hanging out, talking and enjoying the day. I attended several of those gatherings, but it was never quite my favorite style of paddling. When I am out on the water, I generally prefer to keep moving, explore the shoreline and see as much wildlife as possible.
Shell Key is still a very easy place to be social. On weekends, dozens of powerboats may be anchored near Irma Pass, and friendly paddlers can usually find people to talk with. I simply prefer quieter days when the preserve belongs mostly to the birds, the fish, a few paddlers and me.
Why I Prefer the Inside Waters
We usually stay on the protected inside of Shell Key, where the long barrier island blocks much of the Gulf swell. The inside route offers more shelter, easier wildlife viewing and many quiet coves and shallow areas to explore.
Buddy seems to enjoy it the same way I do. He would rather remain in the boat, drifting with the current, wind and waves, than spend the entire day sitting on one beach. Moving slowly through the scenery is a large part of the pleasure.
The Gulf Side and Full Circumnavigation
On calm days, especially in winter, experienced groups sometimes paddle the Gulf side or completely circumnavigate Shell Key. It can be a beautiful trip, but the outer coast is much less forgiving than the protected inside waters.
Even when the weather appears good, there is often chop or surf along the beach. Launching and landing through a shore break can be difficult and potentially dangerous. A paddler who capsizes offshore may have little choice but to work toward the beach, drag the boat ashore, empty it and then relaunch through the breaking waves.
It can feel much like a surfer trying to punch through the break. I have done it several times with skilled paddlers in calm conditions, but it is not a route I would recommend casually.
A Good Finish to the Day
One of the pleasures of paddling around Tierra Verde is having a couple of good places nearby for food afterward. The Island Grille has a more polished resort-like atmosphere, with a pool area, fire pits and a relaxed setting by the water.
Billy's Stone Crab has more of an old-Florida feel, with an upstairs area and excellent views of the water and sunset. Seafood, burgers and a cold drink at the end of a long paddle can be a perfect finish to a day at Shell Key.